René Seifert – Entrepreneur & Global Citizen

As we started the tradition last year with MännerMitÄhre (=MenOfHonour) heading up for the Zuspitze, we continued in the same quartet of Rainer, Stephan, Werner and me for the tour to the Meilerhütte. (All the pictures here on this Flickr-set). As the three guys have not changed at all being “the machines”, I took my preparation in the last 8 weeks quite seriously with regular spinning sessions, bodypump-classes, leg muscle-exercises and obedience towards my nutritionist Ashwini in my gym in Bangalore. Writing these lines is the best evidence that I made it both alive and in one piece ;-)

We started out from Partenkirchen (altitude 700 m MSL) through the ever astounding Partnachklamm where the river Partnach gets compressed into a dense bed between the rocks of the canyon.

After that, without any notable mercy from the mountain, quite a steep climb up the Kälbersteig towards the Schachen. After breaking through the forest, with stunning panoramas like this one of the Reintal.

An absolute must, at least with good weather, is a small deviation down to the Schachensee whose chilly temperatures provide a worthwhile refreshment after the 3 hours of walking uphill.

From there is short of half an hour along grazing cows up to the “Schachen” (altitude 1,866 m MSL) with the little hunting castle “Schachenschloss” of the Bavarian “Fairy Tale King” Ludwig II. Rather unassuming from the outside, likewise in the ground-floor during our guided tour, the miracle reveals itself in the first floor of the building.

And that’s in the so called “Turkish Room” (see the link for the picture). King Ludwig used to come here regularly for his birthday and, if I translate the political correct insinuation of our tour guide into plain language, the party must have looked like this: The King stoned himself with smokable drugs indulged in the company of his orientally cross-dressed gay entourage (=MännerOhneÄhre).

From the Schachen it’s another 1.5 hours and plus 500 meters of altitude up to both our summit and our place for the night, the Meilerhütte (2,374 m MSL) which stands like an “Eagle’s Nest” on top of the ridge of the Wetterstein-Mountains.

There is nothing more thoroughly well deserved after alighting from the backpack and taking off the heavy shoes than having the first beer together with the comrades and enjoying the view to both the Bavarian and Austrian side of the mountains.

That’s the funny thing anyway with the Meilerhütte: It lies exactly on the border between both countries, Bavaria (note: NOT Germany! ;-) and Austria. So what happens when you go for a wash, you leave the house which stands on the Bavarian side, the path in a slight right-turn bow comes over to Austria, …

… before it comes back to the Bavarian side again …

… and leads to the separate washing hut. That can indeed be called effective border crossing. Food on the hut was simple, but super-yummy with the classic of all foods on the mountain, the legendary Kaiserschmarrn.

Next day, Monday August 2nd, we were prepared that the weather wouldn’t be a nice as the day before. So we started our descend downhill to the South onto the Austrian side towards Leutasch (~1,100 m MSL) in cloudy conditions.

We couldn’t have been luckier, when we arrived at the bottom, it started to drizzle. After another 10 minutes, just when we found shelter waiting for the bus, a heavy thunderstorm started to pour down an ocean of rain. So we just-in-time escaped into the bus which brought us back to the Bavarian side – first to Mittenwald, then back to Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

There we treated ourselves for the finale grande with Schweinsbraten (roast pork) and Weißbier (wheat beer). Overall, a memorable and highly recommended tour, especially in the right company like with our comradeship of MännerMitÄhre.

One of these drive-by moments when you try to be as fast as possible with your camera. Yesterday in Delhi, we were approaching this one from the back with three happy kids in their school uniforms in the back …

… and three happy kids in the front.

Chapeau to the driver for pedalling in 40 degrees of heat these six cute little chicken home into their nest.

5.39 AM

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Even after 6 years of living in India, the subcontinent is full of surprises every day. Just one week of being here, countless of heartwarming, witty and inspiring stories. Starting in the here and now: I am sitting on a “laptop station” after security of Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi and blogging this post away. Really amazing where India has gotten with such a world class airport, working stations including free high-speed wireless internet (try to get that on a German airport).

It’s been quite a busy travelling week, so last Friday I have been at Cochin Airport where this instance caught my eye. In contrast to western economics where capital EXCHANGES labour for the sake of saving cost, the success formula in India seems to be capital PLUS labour.

In a congenial combination of man & machine the concept works like this: A customer steps forward to the apparatus and selects an item. The guy in the yellow T-Shirts takes his money and shovels it into the machine, the magazine drops down, the guy picks it up and hand it to the customer. Variation B: For bigger items, that’s even more hilarious, the guy collects the money, opens the door, grabs the article and hands it out. So basically as a customer you get the feeling that modern technology is still grounded by good old human service.

Some Indian ads are just involuntarily funny, I really wonder what rode the heavily metrosexual art director of coming up with this copy. It’s supposed to promote the speed of transfer as well breadth of shopping opportunities at Bangalore Airport.

Well, if I was that girl, I also wished that rather the teddybear be my father and not that guy with the gay moustache with the glossy lipstick beneath LOL

9.20 AM

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It has almost become a sort of tradition that I spend my birthday in St. Moritz, so 2010 was on again. The reputation of St. Moritz travels faster than the speed of light, and after being there a few times by now, I’d like to shed some of that light from my experience what to expect, where to go and what to do. (All the pics are here on this Flickr-set, by the way.)

First of all, the skiing slopes are the most awesome I have ever seen, it feels like driving down a 12-lane Autobahn on snow. And so is the view.

The area covered by the lift-pass is huge and there is something for every level of difficulty – I will usually stick to the “red slopes” with my average skiing abilities. In terms of what to expect for foodies up there when skiing, this is what I can share:

• El Paradiso is a platform for plain vanity, even by St. Moritz standards. The owner, his staff and the guests mutually reassure each other how great they find themselves. The waiters are cover-magazine-beauties, the food is poor, the prices astronomic and the attitude fucked up. Once you step in, it is all about that artificially inflated show if you have reserved and how long you would have the table before the next service. Once you order the bill and intend to pay by credit card, you get told that this incurs a surcharge of 3 %. This place has seen me for the last time.
• Poor on a completely different level is the otherwise lovely looking hut of Lej de la Peche. The entire service is completely disorganised, waiters don’t show up at all or if, they forget half of what you ordered. It takes finally 45 minutes to get some pasta. Just bad.

Down in the Dorf (=village) of St. Moritz there is plenty to do and see. During the last three weekends, there is a major happening taking place: The White Turf – the only horse-race in the world on snow, to be more precise, on snow which has been layered on top of the frozen lake.

Opposite above the lake stands majestically the characteristic hotel Badrutt’s Palace, one of the architectural symbols of St. Moritz.

The Bellini in the night bar costs 25 Swiss Francs, but it is a worthwhile investment for people spotting. Unlike El Paradiso, the setting is immaculate, and expect the unexpected: Women on botox, men in blue blazers with golden buttons or, as this, time a group of rich teenage kids most likely from the prestigious and adjacent boarding school of Zuoz having a night out. One couldn’t say that they were behaving badly, but at some point one could tell that they were  spoilt brats who got shovelled everything up their arses by their wealthy parents. 16-year old girls in ultra-short mini-skirts and designer bags – as I learned – priced at 3,000 Euro, is devoid of any envy a bit over the top to establish a proper moral compass for life.

One of my consistent favourites for an aperitif is the cosy bar of the Kempinski hotel with a modern fireplace in the middle surrounded by glass.

The service runs like a Swiss clockwork and embodies style, too. At the rate occasion that I order a bottle of champagne, as I did for my birthday, the waiter would put on their white champagne-gloves to serve the bubbly happiness.

Other places to recommend for food:

• Chesa Veglia is a sort of classic with an exquisite restaurant as well as a pizzeria. The selection of wines is abundant. Expect to run into folks like Claudia Schiffer as I did two years ago. Prices-wise rather at the upper scale.
• The Veltinerkeller does a bit more of the rough stuff. A very recommendable highlight are the Pizzocheri (a pasta). Service is super-efficient, almost such, that one tends to tell the waiters to slow down the pace a bit.
• One of my personal highlights is the simple Swiss restaurant Engiadina right at the central square of St. Moritz village. When entering the place, the smell of melted cheese will crawl up your nose, and that’s exactly its speciality: cheese fondue. If I had a wish how to die, it would be drowning in cheese fondue.



Along with some open white wine and a good cherry schnapps for digestion afterwards, there is nothing more the culinary heart can desire.

Last but not least, the greatest discovery in St. Moritz which is still considered something as a secret tip and stands right at the parking of the Signalbahn: La Baracca. Founded some six years ago, it was targeted at ski teachers and other working staff as a place where they could have a decent meal without the high price tab of St. Moritz on it. However, by now the place has evolved into a potpourri of people from all walks of life. Dresscode is whatever, music nicely chosen, the decoration set with personal love to the smallest detail and the food exceptionally good.

There is a changing menu every evening with, say, ten dishes to choose from. But those are done really, really well. Somehow this place reminded me of “Soul Kitchen“, a restaurant of a similar type which is currently the name and subject of a successful German movie.

St. Moritz has lots of stuff to offer from the bottom to the heights – in every sense of the word – but keeps on calling to come back for more.

Dear Friends,

Thanks to our brave new interconnected world, but even more so thanks to your kindness, your kind birthday-wishes have been reaching me here in St. Moritz (Switzerland) during my skiing vacation. It was lovely to see the first congrats coming in even late evening yesterday my local time – which was already Feb 15th in Australia. And as the date-line was moving westwards, India came next, then Europe and now the first ones are coming in from the U.S.

It is my pleasure and privilege to express my humble thoughts that you have thought of me on my birthday, and rest assured that I will have a drink on your behalf tonight here in St. Moritz. More in detail I’ll explain in this brief video both in English and in German :-)

Hope to see you all soon again in person. Take care and warm regards,

René

2.22 PM

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Ever been to a 5-star place which is run by a bunch of amateurs? Then welcome to Soma Kerala Palace in India. It takes 4 minutes and 32 seconds to do a full round on the perimeter of the island on which the resort is located. That might give you an idea of the size of the place which just opened less than two months ago. Check out its website, the resort looks really as beautiful as the pictures promise. It took apparently seven years to dry out the swamp, set up a solid foundation on which the existing structure with the buildings could be erected. My highest respect for this sophisticated undertaking, the aesthetics in design as well as the composition of space and architecture. Unfortunately, here my charming remarks on Somatheeram Palace come to an abrupt halt.

Just finished today a 10 Ayurveda treatment which went really well and deserves a separate post in full positive tone. Yet, for the first time, since I can think, I felt stuck in a holiday-place that I don’t like, but sort of “had to” stay because I wanted to finish a project – namely this Ayurveda treatment. Back how it all started: During out „7 Dwarfs-Tour“ two months ago we dropped our friend Maks in Somatheeram (Kovalam). I saw the place, really liked it. Moreover, Maks was so delighted about the experience that I decided to try such an Ayurveda-treatment as well. What can happen better to a company like Somatheeram in the first place to be referred through word-of-mouth? So I wrote for a booking in the same resort, but got to know from its office that it was fully booked over Christmas, yet at the same time there was a new sister-resort which would offer the same sort of treatments – Soma Kerala Palace. Well, so given the – in my perception – powerful brand of Somatheeram which was supposed to stand for a high-quality Ayurveda-experience, I gave it a go.

Arriving on December 22nd, I pretty soon started to see problems. To be balanced and fair for the thrashing which is to start in the next paragraph: The Ayurveda-clinic as a unit is well run by the Chief Physician Dr. R. Sreelatha of Somatheeram with two both phenomenal and warm-hearted therapists Bijo and Shaji. These guys have not just been massaging their arms and hands off, by now they have seen me longer naked than all the girlfriends in my lifetime together ;-) Also the yoga-teacher Varghese Thomas is a true treasure who loves what he does, teaches with great enthusiasm, explains very well and tries to compensate as much as he can the massive shortcomings of the resort. These two were the only consistent daily highlights.

Let’s get started, and I know that this is not going to be particularly nice. With my 400,000 miles of annual travelling, I have never seen a place where the gap between the effort to construct a place and the effort to run a place is as huge as the Grand Canyon. To let no doubt about the latter: Somatheeram Palace is awfully run. Management as a function of business is close to non-existent. To define some sort of benchmark for my expectation based on the Somatheeram brand and the price the resort charges (around EUR 160 per night including treatments): Provide a consistent high-quality Ayuveda experience in a relaxing environment. Unfortunately, there is neither anything consistent, nor high-quality nor relaxing.

Let me showcase the series of defaults with a few examples:

• Somebody’s ceiling is somebody else’s floor: As beautiful as the houses are, they have one major construction flaw which is a purely wooden ceiling. So if you occupy the ground floor you can understand every word spoke above you, with every step up there you feel that an elephant is trampling on you. Not so cool if the family above you decides to get up at 5.50 am.

• If Somatheeram positions itself as a serious Ayurveda place, then it is not comprehensible to me why it accepts families with hordes of kids where not even their parents are into any Ayurveda-activity whatsoever, but are just paying guests for the resort to fill up empty capacity – often just for a 1 night-stay. On several occasions days, we had some four families with I guess 15 kids in the age between 3 and 15 years. So let’s call the experience “Playground with adjacent Ayurveda”. Contrast that with e.g. the Ayurveda place Jindal in Bangalore which does not allow kids at all – for a good reason. I am really surprised that the management of Somatheeram jeopardizes the brand with such a dilution of its positioning. If you want to host plenty of kids, don’t call your place something with “Somatheeram”, but “Kumar’s Familiy Paradise” or so. Then I will surely not come for Ayurveda  and equally won’t have any reason to complain.

• Although I had diligently inquired beforehand if there was internet-connectivity, it has been a catastrophic experience. In the first few days, it did not work at all, then just with a USB-modem on the reception-computer which I could use and then not at all again. The so called “internet café” is a joke: two computers stuck in a dark room with a neon lamp which hurts in the eyes, modems, routers, printers, cables on the floor – an entire mess. Also, just for the professionalism of my beloved management: On the computer on the right side, there are plenty of Excel-files with the occupancy-list including name of all guests for all days in November. Openly accessible straight from the desktop …Over the 10 days, the internet worked just over a few hours per day or not at all with an overall uptime of some 3 %. Completely useless, but don’t think anybody cares about fixing it. Somehow this whole “internet-café” as a concept is anyway stuck in the 90s. Where is the problem – like any reasonable hotel does it nowadays – to provide WiFi-internet in each room? I would be willing to pay up to 15 EUR per day for the convenience in case it “just works”.

Sadly, very few things just work at Soma Kerala Palace which according to the saying “the fish stinks from the head” is due to a manager who is friendly by nature, tries his best, but is clearly not up to the job. He is too junior and inexperienced to run a resort of this sophistication. This reflects his selection of staff who is even less up to the job, the absence of team-wide attitude, the absence of cross-department communication, the absence of any visible training, the the absence of defined quality-standards and the absence of continuous benchmarking against those. The result: Random results which fluctuate between OK and terrible. Some more examples:

• The room-service forgot to replenish the two water bottels, no big deal. I called the house keeping under “16” and asked the gentleman on the other end of the line if he could be so kind and bring those. The not too elaborate response: “Okokok”. Unfortunately, nothing happened. Just the typical retard-answer which is a mix between “I have no clue what you want from me” and “Kiss my ass”.

• My expectation would have been that there is some integrated Ayurveda experience which streches from the doctor, to the restaurant to the yoga trainer. The fact of the matter is that these three don’t seem to be coordinating anything among them. Result e.g. with the restaurant: It took the two lovely Austrian ladies Christine and Bettina (who have been suffering equally) and me five days to kick the restaurant in some shape in order to come up with some basic (!) hospitality-organization for pre-ordering our dishes. The quality of food, in turn, fluctuates between sometimes delicious and sometimes given our Ayurvedic intentions way too fat, or let’s rather say: No clue about Ayurveda-cooking. There seems to never have taken place any training for the cooks how to prepare proper Ayurvedic food. And when the cook changes and you order the same meal, you are facing a virgin experience on your plate.If this restaurant had to economically survive not as the monopoly on an island, but somewhere in central Kochin and Bangalore, it would – after one week of its operations – entertain exactly zero guests.

• Then there are serious attitude problems on Somatheeram Palace: One night, we had a heavy thunderstorm so that the floor of our lovely yoga pavilion had become wet. The awesome yoga teacher was around already at 6.30 am, one hour before the class, and kindly asked the guy at the reception if he could have someone dry the floor. This guy, however, decided to sit on his ass and basically think: “What is this yoga guy giving me instructions, me the bog honcho at my desk” and not doing anything about. It was not till I came at 7.30 am and started to shout at him that things would start moving. The biggest problem: I can’t imagine anything which I want to do less than shout at people in general, not to mention during a holiday which was supposed to be entirely aimed at relaxation.

• The bunch of families mentioned above had populated the swimming pool and left a battlefield of garbage, empty cups and used towels behind them. Bettina went to the pool the next day in the afternoon at 4 pm (!) and realized that nothing of it had been cleaned. As she understandably refused to sit in the midst of trash, she kicked the manager’s butt. What happened next is hyper-typical of the management style: All of a sudden three hectic creatures came running to the spot with panic in their eyes for impromptu-cleaning. No systematic approach to nothing. No processes at all. Instead, the management is improvising its way through the day all the time.

• Check out this picture, it’s so telling about all I wrote so far and serves as an epitome for all the consistent neglect. This is the lovely water lily pond right in front of the reception (background).What do we see in the right bottom corner? An empty water bottle swimming quietly on the surface, each and every member of the staff passing by several times from the early morning and even after half a day, the crap hadn’t been removed. It eventually did when I told the manager to his surprise that there was an empty bottle floating in front of his nose. Basically, Soma Kerala Palace is littered with trash in bits and pieces all over the place. The staff is, by contrast, quite helpful in creating it: I couldn’t believe my eyes what the waiter opened the plastic seal of the water bottle, just to drop it right on the lawn.

• The same manager, constantly both apologetic and stressed by nature, really had the audacity to reply to one of the Austrian ladies as an excuse for all the shortcomings: “I have so much to do, I can’t do everything.” Clear proof his overstraining to the job. No wonder he has too much to do as he is sitting 80 % of the time in the reception, checking guests in and our and just doing operational stuff like answering phone calls (which he does well by the way). Effect: Zero exercise of any leadership which would deserve the notion of “running an operation”.

Although there are more examples I could tell, they are getting equally annoying to recount as they are annoying to read. In the essence, it always comes back to the same three issues: no customer-centricity, terrible management and as a result lack of quality. As a guest of Somatheeram I constantly had this feeling of disbelief: “Come on, guys, this is not true! Get a grip on yourself and just do your work properly.”

We heard several times the once more apologetic argument “sorry, we just opened two months ago”, but you can stretch this argument only so far to a finite extent. The preparation for a hospitality-business is NOT finished by building some nice houses on an island, ship a bunch of untrained amateurs in who pretend to run it and have your first guests be you guinea pigs. I would be willing to give them the benefit of the doubt if I saw the remote attempt to improve things beyond the ad-hoc problem fixing in any systematic manner. As things are going on, guests will hear the excuse “sorry, we just opened 3 years ago” in 2012.

If I was the owner of Soma Kerala Palace, I would be extremely worried about the state of my resort. Especially given the time, cost and effort to build Soma Kerala Palace in the first place. It feels like you intend to cook the best dinner in the world, buy the best ingredients, hire the best cooks, prepare everything according to the most delicious recipes. But at serving each and every course, one meter away from the table, the waiter stumbles and spills it all on the carpet. If I was the owner of Somatheeram Palace, I would emergency-parachute my best and most senior people in to take over, put professional practises in place, exchange key-people and kick a lot of asses for the next weeks to come.

But me being me, this is neither my task nor my responsibility. Me being me got enough from Soma Kerala Palace and will for sure never come close to anything where it reads “Somatheeram”. And if asked for advise, I would actively discourage my friends to go there.

3.42 AM

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Even after a week of TED India, I feel the inspiration of this unique event still hasn’t left its grip on me. On the weekend, there came via e-mail the request from the TED-team to rate the event, it took me some 10 minutes in all various categories and questions, but the last one was certainly the most important. Besides all the dissecting of single aspects of the event, the holistic question was “How would you rate your overall TED India experience?” On the given scale I gave it the best marks with “off the charts”. This applied for the venue, the Infosys Campus in Mysore, as well.

(All pictures of the event, here on my Flickr-set.)

What makes this event so fundamentally unique is the mix of phenomenal speakers in a broad array of disciplines combined with an extremely open discussion culture with the attendees, around 1,000. In terms of the latter: The norm is to just sit down e.g. at lunch or before a session and start a conversation with the people left and right of you. Every time, I felt it was interesting what they had to say, moreover the conversation was characterized by mutual curiosity. The topics started mostly with “what do you do” (without the sales-pitch to it) or “where do you come from”. A phenomenal review of the event which speaks from my heart here at GodInChief from my dear friend Vishal Gondal.

For instance during the last night at the party, I spoke to a PhD in biology who has been running a field study in South India how to reconcile the two apparently contradicting systems of wildlife conservation and that of agriculture for the neighbouring farmers. (There seems to be one …)

Plenty of such exciting conversations on how to lift the life of the underprivileged, especially through grass-root-projects which create some self-sustaining momentum. Those can have an approach of “one person at a time” to scalable models. A brief update at this point on our own charity “Wipro Netbooks for Vatsalya”: We are optimizing tiny little bits and pieces. Being an anal German we bought some buttons from felt which we installed below the table-legs to stop them rock, got some pillows for the chairs so that the very little girls would not have to have their arms at the level of their ears to reach the keyboard.

In fact, it was Petra who who took care of it during her and her husband’s Jürgen visit to Bangalore in the last weeks. Jürgen with his IT-network expertise installed a new, more robust WiFi-router which is better suited to serve 12 concurrent connections. Last, but not least: This month, the computer training started with an experienced female teacher twice a week.

Also, I would not like to withhold the official “thanking letter” from Shashi in the name of the institution.

What TED’s inspiration taught me or at least recalled to keep in consideration: If you do business for profit, there is always some higher calling beyond the P&L. Go out, find this mission and inspire your employees, your customers and all your other stakeholders with it. Your following will be manifold.

When you are doing well, there is ample of space of doing good. Go and understand what is what you do best in your organization. Find a way to apply a tiny portion of time and resources from it. Find a way to transfer this abilily in order to enable those who need this little kick-start before they can get lifted on their own.

That’s something I have just embodied in a recent business plan. In one year down the line I will have to be measured by my actions resulting from the easy part called words.

It’s been some 6 hours that I arrived at Infosys’ Campus in Mysore, the venue for the TED India conference. The campus is out of this world, when going through the gate “you are leaving the Indian sector” and it appears as neat as Disney World – although the Infosysians roaming around are way smarter ;-)

Obviously, I am no conference newbie. But every event has its own culture and my experience has been to look and watch in the first place, keep a bit of a low profile to understand the dos and don’ts and then fully immersing into the action. So far my first impression has been fantastic. You just start a conversation with anybody on where they come from, what they do or what interests them. What is a good thing – and I hate anything else – that the conversations are genuinely personal and nobody tries to “sell” himself, lest any product or service.

I guess one little anecdote illustrates my point quite well: When I took the bus back from the opening party to the campus, there was a slim Indian gentleman sitting there. I asked politely if the chair was vacant, he confirmed politely and we introduced each other by name: “Rama – René”. He made an extremely humble, maybe even slightly shy impression to me, and we started to talk in a real curious two-way conversation. After 3 minutes or so it turned out that this gentleman was Vilayanur Ramachandran, one of the leading neuroscientists of the world. He told me about his studies of the human brain with his approach to learn from deviant behaviour in a systematic way about the brain function and arrive to general conclusions for the ‘normal’ case. Rama held a talk today in the pre-conference programme; and here he is in a TED-talk of 2007.

We came then to some older studies of his where he looked at the function of humour which he explained in an amazing way of cultural evolution. But then we didn’t stay too long too theoretical and started to exchange hilarious jokes. One of them which the Professor told me is the sort of jokes I usually tell and I had to promise not spread it by giving “credit” to him. Promised.

As I mentioned Twitter, Rama said that he was registered, but didn’t understand if he had to admit people who follow him, what was public and what not. This was of course my little moment of glory where I could share my experience with the microblogging service and explain all open points. So my initial take: TED is predominantly about good, mutual conversations where a pinch of humour doesn’t do any harm either.

An amazing first evening, and I am really really looking forward to tomorrow, with Day 1 of the conference program. By the way, the entire Day 1 will be broadcast live online.

7.04 PM

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OMG, Dirk, “The Schornsteiniger”, did it again. He produced another episode of “Howard Seifendale” from our footage material in Goa. Here, Seifendale makes the case about “Die Arme und die Würde von die Reiche” :-)

If you happen to find this funny, feel free to join Howard Seifendale’s Fanpage on Facebook, too.

6.17 AM

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